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than 200 ago the advance of the Russian Empire troops pushed Kazakhs
to neighboring countries. In mid-19th century part of the Lower
Dzuuz Clan or Southern Kazakhs came to Mongolia and were allowed
to settle down in Bayan Ulgii, Western Mongolia and for the most
of 20th century they remained an isolated, tightly knit community.
The wind of changes in 1990 also touched the lives of Mongolian Kazakhs. As soon as the former Soviet Union collapsed, the first President of Kazakhstan, Nursultan Nazirbyaev faced the problem of the Russian majority who came in the industrialization wave of 60s and70s and comprised some 54% of the total population. To shift this balance in favor of Kazakhs he appealed to Kazakhs living in other countries to return to their motherland, promising money for resettlement, free housing and jobs. Some 60,000 or more than half of 120,000 strong community of
Mongolian Kazakhs chose to move to Kazakhstan. There they become
valued and respected for their knowledge of the old customs. Staying
isolated for almost 200 years, they preserved their traditions
very well and now steal all the top prizes from literary, poetry
and folk arts contests.
Among many Kazakh traditions is the ancient art of hunting with trained birds of prey. The tradition is believed to originate in Central Asia some 6000 years ago and later on be adopted in Europe and other countries. 13th century historical chronicles relay records of Kubilai Khaan's lavish hunting trips in autumn and winter involving thousands of people and horses. Falconers alone numbered more than 5,000. This centuries old tradition is still practiced among Kazakhs of Bayan Ulgii province which now boasts more than 200 members of the Berkut Association. Most of whom live in Tsats uul, Deluun, Tsengel and Bayannuur localities. Golden Eagles For hunting purpose Kazakhs catch and train Golden Eagles, mighty birds of prey common throughout the Central Asia. These huge birds weight up to 6.5 kilograms with wingspan of seven or eight feet. The talons or claws on an eagle's toes are curved and razor-sharp for catching and holding their prey. This gave eagles the name raptor which comes from a Latin word "rapere" meaning to grip or grasp.
Eagles are "birds of prey," which means they hunt for their food. Unlike other birds, which eat seeds or insects flying short distance, eagles fly great distances in order to find game. Therefore eagles mastered the skill of soaring. They ride the warm flows of air and can speed up to twenty miles per hour almost without effort. The eagle's eyesight is especially remarkable. With vision about eight times sharper than human, they can spot a fox or rabbit up to a mile away. Usually Kazakh hunters go for female birds as they one third heavier than males and much more aggressive. Eagles can live up to 50 years but most hunters keep the birds for about 10 years and then release them back into the wild. Eagle Training Hunters choose either to snatch a young, few months old chick from nest at mountain tops or lure a young birds with pigeons and trap them. "Eagle chicks are more tame as they used to humans and do not attack children or sheep. While grown ups are more aggressive and better hunters," says Sembai, well known hunter from Nogoon Nuur soum. In early summer hunters go to mountains to find eagle nests and snatch an young chick. To catch elder birds hunters lay out a net baited with fresh meat and wait for the bird to come feed and entangle itself. "Once I tethered another eagle next to a large carcass near the place where I saw a good bird. Eagles are jealous and when she saw an intruder fiesting on her territory she could not stand it and came down. That is how I caught this bird," shares Manai, one of the local hunters.
Young birds are kept for about a month or two during which they are fed with washed out meat from master hands and become used to the presence of humans. In late summer they are 'broken' by being tied to a wooden block so that they fall when they try to fly away. During this time they are not given food. After few days they become exhausted and ready for training. They are sat on a pole called a tugir and one of young men pulls a lure made of small animal skins in front of the bird. When she attacks the lure called shirga, they are given some meat as reward. The eagles are trained to hunt marmots, rabbits and small foxes. The hunters eventually train the eagle to hunt down foxes, even wolves. Hunting
Early winter is considered to be the best season for hunting as foxes and other game acquire winter furs. Usually, after the first snow falls, the hunter rides a horse, holding hunting eagles on his left arm, and wanders among the rugged, snow topped covered mountains. Often young boys will accompany the hunters and help them to flush the game. As soon as the hunter spots an escaping fox or marmot, he will send the hunting eagle into the air towards the quarry. The bird first goes up to size up the target and then goes down in one long but swift strike falling right on the spine of the escaping animal. She catches the prey with her iron paws and until the hunter approaches. Though the gain from eagle hunting is rather shy, it is an amusing sport and entertainment and thus is very popular among the Kazakhs who use the fox furs to make distinctive national winter fur hats. Hunters take great pride in having a clever, quick and valiant hunting eagle. Eagle Hunting Festival After the liberalization of 1990, the tradition of eagle hunting, somewhat downplayed during the socialism, has been revived and now the local Berkut Association counts more than 200 members.
For last few years Bayan Ulgii Kazakhs held in early October the Eagle Hunting Festival, a colorful and picturesque event attracting the best hunters and birds, and an important celebration for the local community. The festival begins with each hunter displaying the hunting outfits and elaborate, beautifully adorned accessories. Later, the hunting eagles are evaluated for their skills. The eagles are released from a rock cliff, while their owners stand below and signal for them to land upon their arms, as they do during hunting. Those with the fastest times and best technique are awarded the highest scores.
In addition to the eagle hunting contests, the participants play such traditional Kazakh games known as kekbar. Two teams compete to pass a goat skin over to their side of the field and the winner throws the skin onto the gher of his choice and this family is expected to host a party for everyone. The events ends in grand dostarkhan, or a party at which the winners are toasted and great hunting tales are shared. This event represents the very essence of the culture of nomadic Kazakhs and if you like to have once-in-life experience, we recommend strongly to, first, read "Eagle Dreams: Searching for Legends in Wild Mongolia" book, an excellent account of the eagle hunting experience by Stephen Bodio and then to contact Canat, a resourceful local Kazakh man who speaks five languages and operates the Blue Wolf tourist company ever since 1996. He knows all and can provide reliable services.
Mongol_Altai@yahoo.com
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